Chestiita Baba Marta... the day where ALL Bulgarians celebrate the coming of spring by the sharing of "marteniitsas" -- little red and white braided pins for lapels, or bracelets to tie around your wrist. These are to celebrate the coming of spring, on March 1st. Every single Bulgarian I have seen this past week has been wearing either something on their shirt or jacket, or with several martenitsi on their wrists. Some of the students are having competitions to see who can wear the most, for the longest.
The tradition is that you wear a marteniitsa until you see the first sign of spring -- There are a couple interpretations about what the "sign" is, but if you see either a stork (which apparently there are plenty around) or a tree beginning to set out its first leaves, you are supposed to remove your marteniitsi and tie them to the tree and make a wish. The wearing and giving of these little red and white trinkets is supposed to bring you health and a good life in the coming year.
As we have been traveling around Bulgaria this year, everywhere I have been seeing the remnants of marteniitsti (marteniitsa = singular) of years past. What surprises me and what makes me love this tradition/holiday so much is that everyone I have seen has been wearing at least one marteniitsa, if not many, on their person. Old, young, male, female, people of all ages, interests, etc have participated in this tradition. And everyone around has emerged from the grumpy, miserable winter hibernation persona with these wishings of the coming spring, or "Grandmother March" which is what Baba Marta literally translates to.
Yesterday, I went to the center for some errands and just for some wanderings. It was a beautiful day, the sky was a bright blue and the air was clean with a touch of warmth-- one of those perfect "spring is coming" day. I thought it was too warm to wear my winter wool peacoat when I left, and so I grabbed my lighter jacket, rolled up my jean cuffs and donned a pair of flip flops.
I have never had so many strangers come up to me in one day (three people) and comment on my appearance... ever. They kept asking me, with disbelief in their voice and faces, whether I was cold with my flip flops. My limited knowledge of Bulgarian only permitted me to reply "not cold" (ne studenno) and keep insisting that I wasn't. It was very interesting... However these are people who also believe that if you sit with a draft on your back, you will become infertile.
Yes, that is one of the medical myths which some people adhere to and believe wholeheartedly.
I continued to walk in my flipflops. I happened upon a bead shop, where the woman/artist/owner makes her own jewelry -- necklaces, earrings, key bobbles, bracelets... but also sells the beads for you to make things or she will make something on request. I picked out a pair of really pretty and funky blue and light sage green earrings, for about $3. There several other items that I had wanted to buy, but I am trying to moderate my spendings, with our upcoming spring break trip (more descriptives on that later)
After the bead store, right next to it was this beautiful artisan gallery! It reminded me of an art gallery in Portsmouth, or something downtown in Charlottesville. Lots of funky pottery, framed and unframed artwork, multimedia pieces, more jewelry... I will definitely return! The lady there also had these beautiful handmade marteniitsi (the ones you buy from the street vendors are mass produced, probably in China). I loved browsing through there.
Having quite the art inspired morning, I decided I was going to find a nice sketchbook and some charcoal pencils so I could start drawing again. I was so sad when I made the decision to leave my "art box" at home... There was no way I was going to be able to bring all or nearly all of my supplies. I had been over the limit as far as weight in suitcases was concerned, and I did not have the money or the luggage capacity to pack and pay for another excess bag... Well, now I am happy to say that I have begun the restoration of my art supplies! I found a nice (but expensive) sketch book and some good pencils and charcoal pencils, which I think will be very nice to use. Perhaps I will do some sketching today :-)
I met up with a friend, Jess, and we had some lunch. I remembered that there was a Picasso exhibit that was visiting in the National Gallery of Foreign Art and I am pretty sure this was its last weekend here in Sofia. We went over to the gallery and bought our tickets- with our ACS id cards, we were able to receive the student discount which was 2 leva (about $1.50). The exhibit was packed! I am not sure I have EVER been to an art gallery which had that many people. It was at first annoying, but then I really started to appreciate the fact that so many people, as misrun as this country and city can be, really do have an appreciation for culture and artistic talent. Not that I didn't think that they would, but I was just impressed with how many people were there...Old folks, families, some of our students, I even heard some British English speakers... and it was a great exhibit! I think the first time I have ever seen Picasso. The rest of the gallery was wonderful as well. They had a great collection of French art, some Renoir, a couple Degas, and then this other painter whose images appeared so ethereal the subjects looked like ghosts (I cannot remember the name--something starting with a C).
Jess and I only explored the second floor, where the Picasso exhibit was located, but there were other parts of the museum that weren't open and that we did not get to see, so I will definitely be returning again :-)
The marteniitsi, the crocusses that are popping up on campus, the bunches of hiacynth, daffodils, tulips, crocus, which are being sold on the street by the old babas, the sun showers which happened as I was walking through the campus of Sofia University, all these signalling that spring is coming. And I love it!
So happy spring to all,
Честита Баба Марта!!
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